How To Repair A Heat Circulator Pump

Circulating Pump Won't Run
Diagnose & fix circulator pumps that won't kickoff & run in response to a call for estrus

Mail a QUESTION or Annotate about how to repair a heating zone circulator pump that seems to be stuck "off"

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Heating zone circulator pump won't start or seems stuck: how to diagnose & ready a heating zone circulator that will not run when it should.

This article series describes how to diagnose & set circulator pump problems on hot water or hydronic heating systems.

We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or yous can try the folio top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.

Diagnose Stuck or "Dead" Zone Circulators on Hot H2o Heating Systems

Reader question: My heating zone circulator won't starting time-up

(October 29, 2022) Mark said:

I accept a Weil-McLain furnace/boiler model no. CGM-5-PI. I merely turned on the heat system two days ago and I noticed the circulator pump is not spinning its motor. I bleed all the valves on all the radiators.

The ii upper levels get rut on the radiators, simply the 1 on the entrance level is non getting estrus. Is this caused past the pump not working? Is there any danger/run a risk of running the heat with the circulatory pump not working?

How much would it cost to replace the circulatory pump? Any information would be helpful. Cheers.

(Nov 24, 2022) annonymous said:

circulator pump goes on when heat called, runs thru cycle, but doesn't come again.....burners come on,but not circulator which in plough organization goes off

Answer: Six Steps in Diagnosing a Heating Circulator Pump that Is Not Working

Mark

In answer to your cost question, Grundfoss & Bell & Gossett heating zone circulator pumps are typically in the range of $100. to $300. depending on the pump model.

If the circulator pump won't get-go when the boiler temperature is sufficently high that it should, you would check the following:

one. Cheque that the thermostat is calling for heat and the room temperature is below the thermostat ready temperature. Starting time set the room thermostat all the way "upwardly" then nosotros know information technology'due south gear up above the room temperature.

two. Check that the boiler temperature is to a higher place the circulator cut-in temperature controlled by the aquastat. Accept a await at the boiler temperature on the gauge on the boiler and have a look

at the AQUASTAT Hello LO DIFF SETTINGS

- or just check out

this AQUASTAT OPERATING CHART

where y'all'll see that the temperature has to be above the LO setting for circulator to run. (Otherwise it'southward locked out on most systems).

3. Check the circulator relay has ability and is switched "in" or callling for the circulator to run.

There will be a relay switch either in the aquastat on your boiler or one or more boosted circulator relays decision-making boosted circulator pumps if in that location is more than one circulator pump. The thermostat wires human activity every bit a simple "on-off" switch, connecting to the circultor relay in the aquastat or in the separate circulator relay.

If we suspect that the thermostat is not working we disconnect the two T T wires at the relay or aquastat, then bound the two T T terminals together. This is exactly the same equally what would happen if the thermostat is calling for oestrus.

When the TT wires are jumpered OR the thermostat is calling for rut, the circulator relay should "pull in", switching on 120VAC to the circulator pump itself.

Some old timers button down on the circulator relay - if information technology clicks on (and the pump runs) then the relay was not beingness pulled in by the thermostat (switch) OR the relay itself has failed.

Scout out: exposing or touching live electric wiring connections can stupor or kill you. If you practise not know how to make these tests safely don't try it: call for help from a trained professional.

Encounter CIRCULATOR PUMP RELAYS & OTHER CONTROLS for details.

4. Check that the circulator pump is getting electrical power

When the circulator relay is switching on 120VAC to the circulator pump itself we should see 120VAC at the power terminals at the circulator pump.

Watch out: exposing or touching live electrical wiring connections tin shock or impale you. If you lot do non know how to make these tests safely don't endeavor it: phone call for help from a trained professional.

5. Check that the circulator pump itself runs and is not damaged, jammed, frozen - how to tell if the circulator is running - below we give seven ways to exam a circulator pump to run into if information technology's running and if it's pumping.

If the circulator pump has power but the pump is not spinning then there is an internal trouble in the circulator pump or pump motor or its impelller.

Some circulator pumps make plenty noise and vibration that it's obvious if the pump is running. Some circulator pump models such as the older B&K red circulator pumps actually have exposed linkages betwixt the electrical motor and the circulator impeller associates. Y'all can actually see the link spinning.

Picket out: information technology is difficult to tell if some other circulator pumps are actually running: a TACO brand circulator is often near silent - even feeling its vibration can be tough.
Signs of a "expressionless" or "dying" hot water heat circulator pump:

Circulator motor hums but does not seem to pump (bad motor or bad motor capacitor)
Circulator motor is very noisy or impeller associates is very noisy (bad bearing or bad impeller)
Circuator motor very hot just incoming and approachable pipes are not hot a couple of anxiety away from the circulator (overheated or failed circulator motor or motor can't start)

How To Tell If A Heating Boiler Circulator Pump Is Working

Overheated circulator pump motor, cool zone piping suggests that the circulator motor has failed (C) InspectApedia.com DJF Photo: when the zone served past this circulator was ice cold we confirmed that the circultor relay had pulled-in, that electrical power was delivered to the circulator motor, and that the zone was (probably) not air-spring.

[Click to enlarge whatever epitome]

After leaving the thermostat and circulator relay "on" - calling for heat - overnight, the circulator motor itself was very hot, but the zone piping on the outlet side of the circulator, only a few anxiety away, was cool.

The circulator motor was not able to run. It'southward possible that replacing the circulator motor'due south start/run capacitor would take got information technology spinning, but the service technician felt it safer to replace teh whole circulator motor assembly. That stock-still the "no heat" problem.

Feel the heating pipes: If your heating boiler is hot and the circulator is running, you should feel high temperatures in the heating pipes entering and leaving the circulator.
If but a few feet from the circulator's output side the pipes are cold, well-nigh-likely the circulator is not pushing hot water. (Likewise see our air bound heating warning at the end of these notes).
Listen to the heating pipes: Close a zone service valve part-way. If at that place is a service valve on either terminate of the zone piping for the circulator in question, slowly close the valve.
If the zone shutoff valve is really working (sometimes a gate valve handle spins but does non raise or lower the gate), as the valve closes and the restriction of the zone flow increases yous should hear an increase or at least a change in the menstruation dissonance in the zone.

If there is no noise change then no heating water is flowing.
Feel the circulator motor: Also experience the circulator pump motor itself.
If the motor is scalding hot to the touch and the heating pipes are noticeably cooler then the motor is overheating and is nearly-likely damaged.
Listen to the circulator motor: I sometimes utilise a mechanic'southward stethoscope to listen to the motor on the circulator pump. No noise, pump non running. Screaming noise, failing bearing.
Measure circulator pump current draw: I oftentimes use a DMM or VOM to measure the current drawn by the circulator pump.
If the current drawn is well to a higher place (more than than 10% above) the FLA given on the circulator pump motor data tag then I suspect the motor is bounden or damaged.

If the current drawn is well below the FLA (less than 10% of the FLA) given on the data tag then I suspect the motor is spinning with so footling resistance that it is not moving the actual impeller assembly. A linkage or impeller shaft has broken.
Check or replace the circulator motor get-go/run capacitor: or test the capacitor if you suspect the motor is non starting.
See TEST a MOTOR Outset or RUN CAPACITOR or just swap in a new cap of the same rating.
Beautiful piddling motor test tools: I've read that there are specialty tools (a magnet in a sight-glass) that can tell you if an electrical motor is spinning. If anyone has one of these transport united states a photo using the annotate box and its picture frame icon at the lesser of this page.
At Electrical MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE we explicate how to test electric motors

At DMM DIGITAL MULTIMETER HOW TO Utilise - and also

at DMMs VOMs SAFE Use OF we depict how to apply a digital multimeter to brand checks for power and continuity.

Reader Q&A - also come across the FAQs series linked-to below

@Denys Picard,

Shown here: a newer 1/12 HP, Series 100 NFI Circulator Pump from B&Thou

[Click to enlarge any image]

Good going on repairing your B&Thou circulator pump.

When a circulator bearing fails in my OPINION the most-likely cause is inadequate lubrication,
but
I have also seen recurrent bearing failures at circulator pumps that were not properly mounted and aligned.

A simple, low-tech exam I was taught was with the motor disassembled and safely OFF, nosotros'd come across if there was cease-play at the motor shaft - at either end just especially at the drive end. A side wobble or fifty-fifty a back-and-forth along the axis of the drive shaft play that was noticeable was often a sign of a failing bearing.

It'south more-difficult to make that cess of the bearings in the actual circulator pumping assembly on those older B&Thousand circulators.

I inspected a heating repair chore years ago (in NY) where occupants complained that their B&G circulators were not lasting even through one heating season.

In the basement over behind the banality was literally a pile of dead circulator assemblies.

The repair tech would not have replaced a begetting simply rather (saving hundreds of dollars in labor) just swapped in a new circulator motor + actual circulator associates.

We found that the mounting brackets used to support the circulator at this site were askew - mis-aligned - then that every new installation of a circulator subjected it to a downwards force between the motor output shaft and the circulator pump assembly - killing ane after some other.

Dan, while I was waiting for your reply from my 2nd diagnostic (with pictures) I sent yesterday after your directions, I tired to in stall the bearing assembly to the moor over again. And guess what information technology worked.
Now, some explanations:

1. The pictures yesterday showed the front of the motor and the cement block with some oil...I forgot to tell you that when I pulled the motor (and assembly) on Sat, I had forgot to put the heat call to off, so when the thing started while in my hand, I put it upside downward while rushing to the control. When I came dorsum, I saw my error, and put the device upward once again.
When I was pointing to the dry oil container, I knew the oil had dripped out, only the cords themselves appeared very dry out...

Anyhow:

2. I thought after the diagnostic, since the motor appear to work fine and silently, that it might be a problem with the shaft might exist bent, or the sleeves damaged (I am non sure what they are, considering I only accept the side drawing, but they expect like O rings. All the same, when I connected the associates back this morning and started the motor, information technology did the same suttle racket which is a bit different then when the motor runs alone....after 10 to twelves seconds, when I was expecting to jamme over again, the racket prodigal, and it started running smouth.

My theory or inquiry: Is it possible that the two top bolts property the associates to the motor got slightly unscrewed, while the 2 bottom one were still tight, because I did notice the top screws came out without attempt at all, but a petty pull was necessary to unscrew the ii bottom one. To these bolts need to be re--tighten in one case or more than season, something I have not done.

The assembly is newer (2018, I had to change it because information technology was leaking). Have not touch it since except for oiling. The motor was a refurbished unit when I purchased the pump in 2003).
If you think you know what went incorrect, or if you lot have any suggesting of things I might have missed, please come up frontwards.

Give thanks you lot once more.

@Denys Picard,

That sounds as if in that location'south a trouble in the pump motor itself - a winding that opens at speed or a bad bearing;

If I've understood you correctly then take a expect at Electric MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE at https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric_Motor_Diagnosis.php

and allow me know what yous find

Scout out: testing electrical motors, if you're not trained in safe VOM or DMM use, could become you shocked or killed.

@Denys Picard, @Denys Picard, Just a note: seemed obvious to me, but in the circumstances...the zone valves operate at 24V...the Voltage at the pump is 120V, and slightly volatile (118.5 5 - 120.5V), but that is in sync with the feed. Give thanks you lot.

I have a dual Electric/heating oil system which uses a Honeywell Aquastat L8148, and two zone valves (Schneider Electric - Two position Spring Return Valves). The whole system probably handles almost 25 US Gallons. The Pump is a G&B 1/12 HP circulator pump.. Information technology worked fine all winter

. I closed it for a week, and at present when I kickoff it back, the pump volition run for ten to 15 seconds when there is a rut phone call and stop. I thought something might exist jamming the propeller, and then I took the pump out of its Pump Body. Out of its enclosure, I tested information technology once more, aforementioned problem, it runs x to 15 seconds and and so stops. No noise of relays jammed, everything works, both boilers, the zone valves I tin hear engage when the oestrus phone call starts prior to pump start, and when the circulator stops, you can hear them shut. I have no fault messages on my secondary control, a Honeywell R7284U (Universal Digital OIl Primary). I checked the inner of the Aquastat, no visual or odor damage appreciable. Voltage is slightly volatile (23 to 25 Volts). That is it. What could it be?

On 2022-02-16 - past (modern) - "no rut" and "circulator won't run" diagnostic checklist

Cheers very much for taking time to write this "no heat" and "circulator won't run" diagnostic update, Ma.

We ought to remember to go along as a critical step in any no-heat diagnostic for hot water heating systems a check on whether or non the circulator pump is actually turning on in response to a call for heat. That includes checking

All the reasons that a circulator might Not start

- thermostat or thermostat wire defect or thermostat non calling for heat

- bad end-switch on a zone valve

- lockout by the aquastat that has establish boiler temperature too low (priority to a tankless gyre via the LO setting)

| - a wiring defect

| - a bad circulator relay

- a declining circulator motor (gets hot, starts only when cooled-downwards)

- a failed circulator motor (won't kickoff even when voltage is practical direct to the motor leads) or motor start capacitor (nowadays on some circulator motors)

- other causes listed above.

Thanks, after farther investigation, I discovered that I take 2 bad end switches on my zone valves. One did not piece of work at all and the other was intermittent significant it was sometimes closing the circuit and other times non. I can't discover an exact replacement for the end switches yet but still searching.

In the meantime, I opened the one that wasn't working and found that it has to exist pushed very deep to make contact so I placed a piece of plastic in between the plastic push and the contact to make upwardly for the space and now it works fine. The other i seems to like it's going to somewhen be the same problem so I did the same to that one too and now both the end switches make good contact.

This is temporary until I find suitable finish switch replacements. What I have come with is office number 272744B for honeywell zone valves. Or the number stamped on the outside of my switches say V5C010UB3.
Thanks for the help.

It appears to me that your gap between high limit and low limit is adequate to avoid circulator lockout.

Simple test that I oft effort and have seen other Heating actress is to eliminate the thermostat and information technology's wiring from the equation by jumping the thermostat terminals at the aquastat.

If a telephone call for estrus right at those terminals in the aquastat causes it to correctly turn on the heater and so we suspect the bodily thermostat wires or the thermostat connections or the thermostat itself

Hi I have a Burnham Furnace with Honeywell 8124 Triple Aquastat and Taco 007 Circulator. Initially I had no heat in the radiators. I determined that the circulator pump was non running so I replaced it. Afterwards install, it nonetheless would not plow on.

So plugged a 120VAC cord directly to the circulator to make certain it was working. It was. Next I connected a Voltmeter to the Aquastat wires for the circulator and was not getting any voltage (after about an hr of monitoring the voltmeter).

Determined that my Aquastat was not sending 120VAC to circulator. Replaced Aquastat and had similar symptoms for a few cycles of the boiler. Later a while, it eventually turned on the circulator pump.

Idea I had it figured out until I noticed at dark (especially cold nights) that the thermostat was calling for heat but the temp would never become up. Checked the circulator and it was not running again. Non sure if it is some kind of Circulator Lockout or something else. My Hi Limit setting is about 195F, Lo Limit is about 165F and the Diff is either 20 or 25. Any assist would be appreciated.

Some water an pass a circulator fifty-fifty if the impeller is damaged

If the organization is air spring it may be but partly-then - that is it may restrict only non totally cake period, or readiators alee of the blockage go hot merely non ones past information technology.

Danjoefriedman,

Thanks very much for responding. A couple of follow up questions;

1. If the circulator is in fact not working where the impeller might be blocked/damaged, would water still be able to flow through it? I ask because when I open a faucet after tstat has activated the oestrus, and so the hot water does flow through the air handler coils and the warm air heats the house just fine until the tstat shuts off.

2. If the organization is air bound, can it somehow yet operate usually later on I get the hot water flowing as I bespeak in #ane?

The hot water itself is coming from a tankless. After the hot h2o leaves the tankless, the showtime pipe it hits is the air handler hot water intake loop. (The render loop feeds into the common cold h2o intake of the tankless.) The adjacent pipe (after the air handler intake) goes into the mixing valve that then feeds the domestic hot water.

Fer

Here are a couple of things to check:

ane. Just because a circulator motor is running that does not mean that the circulator is working. For case, the motor may spin but the impeller could be blocked or damaged, and so no water or little h2o is moved. It'southward trivial to confirm that a circulator is actually circulating water by monitoring pipage temperature.

ii. Your system could be air bound; even after haemorrhage some air from a hydronic system there tin can be more; sometimes it'south hard to get air out of a horizontal run.

In the Article Index you'll discover our manufactures on AIRBOUND HEATING SYSTEMS that describe how to get past that blockage.

The fact that y'all are seeing hot water getting to the air handler when you run hot water at a sink suggests that your domestic hot water is made by a tankless coil or by an indirect water heater.

From your clarification it sounds equally if your system pipage is circulating domestic hot water (for washing and bathing) through a building heating source (a roll in an air handler) which in my opinon is a chip odd.

I'd want the tech to map piping and controls and to sort that out for sure.

It's also possible that there'south a control wiring error

I only don't accept enough clear information. Eg. is it really the case that the same Taco circulator is running an indirect h2o heater and the heating gyre in the air handler loop?

I have a three year onetime First Co hydronic organization that has been running without consequence summer/wintertime since information technology was installed. The air handler has a Taco 006-BC7-17IFC. Yesterday the system was serviced for fall tuneup. When rut is turned on at tstat, hot water is not getting to air handler coils merely HVAC tech says Taco is running because his sensor shows it pulling amps. Here's the catchy function... if hot h2o is turned on at whatever sink in the house for a few seconds after tstat turns on estrus, then hot h2o gets to air handler coils and runs fine until tstat reaches set temp

. I practice not demand to go on the sink hot water running in order for hot h2o to attain air handler. But if I don't run sink hot water to get information technology going, hot water never reaches the air handler. The hot water loop to the air handler is separate from the hot water line that feeds the sinks/showers but all are off the aforementioned h2o tank. I also bled the air handler curl. Any ideas on what might be happening or things I should troubleshoot is greatly appreciated.

Danny

Causes of a circulsror pump motor high load warning

Include the possibility of a failing or seizing rotor bearing or motor bearing, debris in an impeller associates - clogging depression voltage supply, pump cavitation (air in the heating organization and pipe, and perchance an unusually loftier head pressure on the system for example if you are trying to circulate to an altitude or height above what the manufacturer permits

Even a new circulator pump bearing tin can exist damaged if the pump is not installed with correct alignment, though I've seen that trouble more than-often on older circulators that have a heavy and separate motor.

Uncommon: improper pump installation or mounting position.
EG:
Obstructed outlet or inlet piping: "It is recommended that the1900e series pumps exist installed with at to the lowest degree 5 to 10 pipe diameters of straight pipage on the inlet and outlet of the pump. "
or
Improper mounting with control module "down" - that permits water to leak into the electrical components of the circulator

Less common: wiring run too long for wire size & circuit ampacity - voltage drib;

Also see the diagnostics at ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERHEATS inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric-Motor-Overheating.php

my taco ii inch taco 1915e runs for a few hours then starts blinking two red lights significant over current..... this is a brand new pump works fine when running.... can someone Assistance ??? I have the correct volts and have no aquastat connected

Danny

Causes of a circulator pump motor high load or over-current warning

Include the possibility of a failing or seizing rotor bearing or motor begetting, debris in an impeller assembly - clogging depression voltage supply, pump cavitation (air in the heating system and piping, and possibly an unusually high head pressure on the system for instance if you are trying to circulate to an altitude or height higher up what the manufacturer permits

Even a new circulator pump bearing can be damaged if the pump is not installed with correct alignment, though I've seen that problem more-ofttimes on older circulators that have a heavy and carve up motor.

Uncommon: improper pump installation or mounting position.
EG:
Obstructed outlet or inlet piping: "It is recommended that the1900e series pumps be installed with at least 5 to x pipe diameters of straight pipe on the inlet and outlet of the pump. "
or
Improper mounting with control module "down" - that permits water to leak into the electric components of the circulator

Too run across the diagnostics at ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERHEATS inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric-Motor-Overheating.php

my Taco 2 inch taco 1915e runs for a few hours then starts blinking two red lights pregnant over current..... this is a brand new pump works fine when running.... can someone Help ?

I take the right volts and have no aquastat continued

Dhiresh

Sure.

Check the circulator relay - it should exist turning on the pump;

Check the thermostat terminals at the circulator relay - jumping those should turn on the pump.

Cheque for shorted or disconnected thermostat wires.

Picket out: the pump may be running fine and the problem could be an air-bound heating zone.

Please meet diagnostic details at CIRCULATOR Functioning CHECKS

Hello I have a Bell Gosset Circulator for my gas fired boiler. A couple of my rooms were not heating so I decided to check out and see if the pump was working. I connected it directly to a power outlet and the pump is working. The issue I think is that the boiler is not activating the pump so it may be an electrical event. Tin anyone advise a fix ?

Easy to check: the transformer will have an output of 24VAC. - using a DMM or VOM one tin can check that right at the transformer;

Take care non to impact alive voltage - you tin be shocked or worse.

I've replaced the taco pump, both relay switches and thermostat on my hydronic heating system. It'southward ran off the water heater and water heater is working proper. Could it be the transformer that has gone bad?

It should exist easy to diagnose this trouble by bypassing the aquastat's circulator relay - past jumping the circulator proper terminals.

Lookout out: if y'all're non familiar with proper and safety electrical testing: you could impairment a control or make the equipment unsafe or get shocked or worse.

I accept a super hot mini gas banality subsequently a power outage the furnace wont piece of work properly the unit turns on no circulation. Diag the pump fried replaced with new yet doesnt cycle. Burner turms on zones open everythong but pump. Bad aquastat?

Question: should the circulator pump come up on right abroad?

(October 27, 2022) Steve said:

My girl bought a house with hot water heat. I bled the radiators, oiled the circulator pump and turned up the thermastat in order to check the operation. The circulator pump did non first to opereate until the boiler temp read 150 degrees.

The pump is hooked up to an aquastat (the thermastat located against the pipe exiting the boiler) which is set at 140 degrees. The radiators practise heat upward. Shouldn't the pump come up on correct abroad?

Reply:

Steve, on a very mutual hot water heating organisation installation the aquastat is a combination control that includes a How-do-you-do LO and Diff setting - the LO and Diff settings control the boiler when no heat is being called for and maintain heat in the boiler to provide domestic hot h2o through a tankless curlicue - that might not even be present or not in use on some installations.

If that general command and approach are in use on your system and if your arrangement is hooked up in the style typically used in the U.S. (not in Canada) the circulator won't plow on until the temperature is sufficiently high in the boiler.

...

Continue reading at CIRCULATOR OPERATION CHECKS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see CIRCULATOR PUMP WON'T Kickoff FAQs - questions and answers near dead circulator pumps posted originally on this page.

Or see these

Recommended Manufactures

CIRCULATOR PUMPS & RELAYS
- BELL & GOSSETT B&M EQUIPMENT MANUALS & CONTACT
- CIRCULATOR PUMP Nuts
- WHAT GOES WRONG WITH HEATING CIRCULATORS?
- CIRCULATOR DIAGNOSTICS
  - Featherbed a BAD CIRCULATOR
  - CIRCULATOR COSTS
  - CIRCULATOR NOISES
  - CIRCULATOR OPERATION CHECKS
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP LEAKS
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP MANUALS
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP MOTOR or Begetting FAILURE
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP MOUNT LOCATIONS
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP MOUNT POSITION
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP RELAYS & OTHER CONTROLS
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP RELAY CHATTERING
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP WON'T START
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP RUNS INTERMITTENTLY
  - CIRCULATOR PUMP SPEED Choice & ADJUSTMENT
  - CIRCULATORS VARIABLE SPEED
  - MULTIPLE CIRCULATORS HOW TO HOOK Upwardly
  - MULTIPLE HEATING ZONE CONTROL
  - TACO CIRCULATORS & CONTROLS
  - WEAK HEAT, WEAK CIRCULATOR, TOO Cool
CIRCULATOR PUMPS vs ZONE VALVES
Common cold HOT WATER BASEBOARD / RADIATOR - no heat?

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